The electromechanical temperature control is located inside the freezer on upright models, and on the left exterior wall on chest models (see figure 1). The temperature is factory preset to provide satisfactory food storage temperatures.
When you’re resetting your Frigidaire freezer, unplug it from the wall for 15 to 20 minutes and then plug it back in. Next, hold down the alarm reset button for three seconds and then press the down arrow three times and the up arrow once. The last step is to select the temperature you would like for your freezer.
Frigidaire Thermostat Location
On most Frigidaire refrigerators, the thermostat is located in a housing unit at the top of the fridge compartment above the top shelf.
Press the Power Cool and Power Freezer buttons at the same time, on the display panel. Hold the buttons for a short time. The refrigerator will be reset and the fridge will start cooling again.
On older upright freezer models, the temperature control is usually located in the middle of the rear wall of the interior cabinet liner. On newer upright freezer models, the temperature control is usually located on the exterior front of the unit on the door.
In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side.
If food freezes inside the fridge or its compartments, the cause may be a faulty thermostat. You can use an appliance thermometer to check the thermostat, or try increasing the temperature a couple of degrees. Then wait a day to check whether the food has become unfrozen.
The most common cause for this condition is a problem with the defrost system. The defrost heater turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils.
H or HI or High Temp – Indicates the freezer and/or refrigerator section of your appliance have exceeded the temperature threshold. This is usually caused by inadvertently not closing the door all the way or leaving the door open for an extended period of time.
If the defrost heater assembly has burned out, the evaporator coils will frost over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, air won’t be able to pass through the coils and cool the freezer. To compensate for the decrease in cooling capacity, the freezer will run continuously in an attempt to keep the freezer cold.
The ideal freezer temperature is -23 degrees F for freezing food and -18 degrees F for storing it. The recommended storage time is halved for every five degrees F above zero.
“1” is the warmest, “7” is the coldest, and turning the temperature dial to OFF shuts down the compressor. Set the dial to “4” and allow 24 hours to pass before adjusting the temperature to your needs.
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The dial relates to power levels, rather than °C temperatures. To lower the fridge freezer temperature you would turn up the thermostat to increase the power, making it run colder. If your fridge is too cold, turn the dial down.
A faulty defrost termination thermostat may result in the defrost heater never heating and a solid frost buildup on the evaporator coil, which results in too warm temperatures. The thermostat contacts are normally closed and have continuity until it reaches 140 degrees.
If the defrost sensor fails to shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow in order to shut off the defrost heater. If the defrost sensor fuse blows, the defrost system will not work, and the refrigerator will not defrost. … If either the defrost sensor or fuse does not have continuity, replace the defrost sensor.
Causes: If your freezer won’t freeze, most likely the condenser coils are dirty which reduces the overall cooling capacity of the freezer. Evaporator fan motor is malfunctioning, and since it’s in charge of circulating the air throughout the freezer, this will need to be resolved, pronto.
Many things can keep a freezer from starting: a bad cold control or thermostat control, a bad start relay, a bad defrost timer or a bad compressor. If the compressor hums, but does not run, the problem might be a bad start relay or compressor. … If the compressor is at fault, call a technician to replace it.
By unplugging the fridge for 24 hours, the ice melts. If the fridge starts cooling again, then you have fixed the immediate problem (iced coils) and possibly identified the root cause (bad defrost controller).
Ice buildup occurs when warm or humid air comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils in your freezer (such as when you open the freezer door on a hot day). The coils will instantly freeze the moisture and, if there’s enough of it, it will accumulate as ice.
Some refrigerators have a reset button, and you can use it to restore the refrigerator to its original factory settings. However, if a refrigerator doesn’t have a reset button, you can unplug it from the power outlet for a few minutes. Then, when you plug it back in, the problem should get fixed.
Depending on the appliance, this may be caused by a defective defrost heater, bimetal, defrost sensor or control board. The temperature-monitoring device may be malfunctioning, either a temperature sensor or thermostat isn’t reading the temperature correctly.
A blinking temperature display is trying to get your attention, typically because the temperature is too high and things need to cool down. It could also be because a door has been left open. Any other blinking lights may require a power cycle to correct the issue.
To reset, press and hold for three seconds. Hold the button for three seconds. The display on-off allows the display of the freezer and fridge temp.
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